Patternmaking

By Dennic Chunman Lo

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  • Paperback
  • 620 illustrations
  • 240 pages
  • 280 x 216 mm
  • ISBN 9781856697507
  • Published October 2011

This practical book shows students how to interpret the human form and look at clothing through the eyes of a designer rather than a consumer. As well as explaining the proportions of the human body, the book introduces key tools and then takes the reader from simple patternmaking ideas to more advanced creative methods.

Step-by-step illustrations show how to create basic bodice, sleeve, skirt, dress, and pant slopers, and how to adapt these to create patterns for original designs. There is also a chapter dedicated to digital technology, and a selection of the author's own creative designs encourages experimentation with the potential of patternmaking.

About the Author

Dennic Chunman Lo is Director of the Creative Pattern Cutting course at London College of Fashion. He has his own fashion label, Lo and Cabon.

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Introduction

Chapter 1 Preparation for Pattern Cutting
Mannequins and Measurements / Personal size chart/ Mannequin size chart/    College size charts/    Industry size charts/    Choose a size chart for industry/    The sampling size, small size or standard size/ The High Street effect on sizing/Understanding the Fabric / Woven versus stretch / Grain line / Straight grain / Horizontal grain / Bias grain / Working with Gravity / Suppression – darts / Observation, rationale and production of a working drawing

Chapter 2 Selecting the Tools

Chapter 3 The Basic Block
Making a Basic Block / Tools and materials / The Basic Bodice Block / Key measurements/    Drafting the basic bodice block / The Basic Sleeve Block / Sleeve crown / Sleeve width / Elbow /    Wrist / Middle of sleeve / Drafting the basic sleeve block / The Basic Skirt Block / Key measurements / Drafting the basic skirt block / The Basic Dress Block / Key measurements – combining existing bodice and skirt blocks / Drafting a basic dress block combining existing bodice and skirt blocks / Key measurements – using an existing bodice block and constructing the skirt from actual body / measurements / Drafting a basic dress block using an existing bodice block and constructing the skirt from actual body measurements / The Basic Trouser Block / Key measurements / Drafting the basic trouser block / A Pattern Cutter’s Aide Memoire

Chapter 4 Drafting the Paper Pattern and First Toile
Folding the paper pattern / Adding the seam allowances, notches and drill holes / Notches / Drill holes / Speaking the Pattern Cutter’s Language / The Toile/Calico or no calico / Fitting on a mannequin / Making and adjusting the toile

Chapter 5 Converting the Block into the Design
Adding Seams to Paper Patterns / Eliminating Seams / Combining two straight seams/ Combining two shaped seams / Larger pattern pieces and the layout plan / Re-positioning the grain line / Moving Darts on the Paper Pattern /    Re-positioning darts / Is it possible to remove darts completely? / Dart manipulation / Adding Seams to Eliminate Darts / Back yoke of a shirt / Back yoke of a pair of jeans/  Include two darts on one seam / The princess line /Adding Pleats and Tucks /    Construction using existing darts / Construction achieved by pattern cutting / Construction using measurements / Adding Volume / Collars / Draft a simple standing collar or collar stand on the model / Draft a simple standing collar or collar stand from a set of measurements / Draft a one-, or two-piece collar with stand, on the model / Draft a two-piece collar from a set of measurements / Peter Pan and Sailor’s Collars /    Convertible collar / Openings and Fastenings / Buttons, buttonholes and the button stand / Zips /    Concealed placket / Fly front / Converting a Bodice Block into a Jacket Block

Chapter 6 Pattern Cutting in Practice A Piece of String /    The material / The pattern / Construction / The “T” Coat / The material / The pattern and construction / The Bias Tube / The pattern / Construction / The Parachute Dress /    The material / The pattern / Construction / A Piece of Cloth – the Blank Canvas / The material / The pattern and construction / Iaido Tuxedo / The material / The pattern

Chapter 7 Pattern Cutting and Technology    CAD / Pattern cutting software

Glossary of terms/Further Reading/Index/Picture credits and acknowledgements/Size Chart

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